Poodles vs Labs

 

How most Poodles differ from field Labradors: Please keep in mind that these are gross generalizations!

  • Poodles have less "out of control" prey drive. This can be very bad if the Poodle does not have ENOUGH prey drive.
  • Poodles think earlier and more (could be called reason or imagination).
  • Poodles are very empathetic. In otherwords if they hear another dog screaming in pain they relate that to themselves and become very worried, whereas Labs seem not to mind this kind of information. Poodles get very worried if their owner/handler is anxious and worried (as at a test or trial)
  • Poodles are much more cold water sensitive.
  • Poodles are much more conscious of their bodies and so are much less injury prone. They are less likely to plow through a barbed wire fence for example. This means that they have less "terrain courage" so must be trained to go through hazards with greater care and perseverence on the part of the trainer! They rarely land "splat" on or into an area that they have not been into before. This also makes Poodles more sensitive to cold water and less apt to do a straight-line marked retrieve of 400 yards through multiple obstacles while on a flat-out dead run! But how many HUNTING dogs will or should do this?
  • Poodles mature much more slowly than Labs. Most 6 month old Labs who have their adult teeth are ready for force-fetch training. A few Poodles are ready at that age, but more commonly they aren't ready for this until nearly a year of age, and some aren't ready until they are 2 years old. Spend that maturation time doing obedience, introducing the pup to water, and letting them chase a few clip wing pigeons. This is a time when they are learning to enjoy learning along with the discipline of paying attention, listening and doing work.
  • Poodles have a VERY long memory for things that you wish they would forget. If they have been injured by an environmental element (stuck with a stick or a wire, for instance) they will remember that area of a training field for YEARS and be reluctant to go there. For this reason the Dobbs method of shore breaking and collar conditioning is not good for Poodles. A Poodle can become VERY terrain fearful when they receive a correction and don't understand it as a correction but rather something coming from the environment. Instead, early trainaing should teach the dog a word which means "that is wrong" (such as NO!). When a Poodle first THINKS of doing the wrong thing then use of that word is very effective at communicating that the planned action is wrong and then you can show them what is "right". This method of teaching follows well established methods of behavior modification in most mammals, including humans. (See articles by Marilyn Fender in Retrievers Online [books and journals]).
  • Most Poodles will only work for and with the person who has trained them. You usually can't train your Poodle and then hand him off to a friend to run at a hunt test if that person has not worked with the dog and developed a "relationship" with the Poodle.
  • Poodles have hair around their eyes which can impede the development of marking ability. If you intend to do any kind of work with your Poodle which requires visual alertness it is imperative that you NEVER let the hair on the topknot fall over the eyes. If a pup is not encouraged to use its eyes it will begin to rely on scent. A field dog MUST primarily use its eyes for marking a bird fall to be successful at retrieving thrown or shot birds.
  • Standard Poodles are VERY unforgiving of unfair corrections compared to Labs. Be sure that your dog understands fully what he is supposed to do before you begin giving strong corrections. If he is not doing something that is well understood then he will respond to a quick, timely and forceful correction, but a poorly timed or "unfair" correction can make a good working Poodle QUIT. And immediate communication of success is as important as corrections when a dog is wrong. Well timed "good dog" promotes a happy retriever.
  • A Poodle whose coat is clipped very short with a #10 or #7 blade and face and feet with a #40 blade is NOT prone to picking up foxtails and burrs. Therefore, in areas of the country infested with burrs and foxtails you can train in fields where owners of other retriever breeds are unwilling to train because of the fear of the foxtails causing injury to the dog. If you check the dog after running in such a field you usually find NO awns clinging to your Poodle. (Be sure to check the ear canals and eyes after your training session, however). Use common sense when training in foxtails, however. Don't put retrieve objects in the middle of a mass of grass awns and expect the dog to not get them in his mouth, eyes or nose!
  • A poodle needs its coat clipped to suit the climate and vegetation in your area. In colder climes the coat is left longer (1 to 2 inches) over the entire body with face and feet clipped shorter. The historical short field continental clip may be quite easy to maintain in habitat without foxtails.

Thanks to VIp

Getting Prepared

How Poodles differ from Labradors

Training Principles

Beginning to Train

Keeping a Log of Training Sessions

Basic Training

Intermediate Training

Advanced Training

Toilet Training

House Training

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